#35. The bike diaries, day 4 - at peace with Switzerland, negotiating a peace treaty with my right knee

Day 4

Santo Domingo de la Calzada-Burgos, 65km of negotiations with my right knee

I keep meeting this guy since the first moment I arrive in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. He was contemplating the cathedral when I stopped by to ask him where the pilgrims' hostel was located. I check in and right after that I notice he's sleeping in the bed next to me in the common bedroom - there are some 20 of these huge bedrooms with 20 bunkbeds each in this hostel. He's in one of the 4 computers in the digital room when I decide to update my blog. And then I finally cross him as I leave the hostel to my next destination.
It's around 9 a.m. and I'm already on my bike when I decide to leave the hikers' path and to make the right towards the national road to Burgos. Guess who's the only cyclist riding there?
OK, Universe, I got it. Out of all the pilgrims from every corner of the world, I'm stuck here in a bike ride with a Swiss guy. I accept it, but now the hell tell me Why.


I have these mixed feelings about Switzerland. Well, not so mixed: my worst nightmares are those ones in which I picture myself living in this country, winter time, cold Swiss people all around me, never looking me at the eyes, never conceding to touch or speak to me, giving me the worst time as I cross the street in the red lights.
As a matter of fact, I do hate Switzerland.
But Enzo turns my nightmare upside down. We go in and outside the path, the route is difficult, we often have to walk our bikes uphill. Born in the German part of Switzerland, he's from Italian descent. As we ride throughout the Camino he talks about his relatives in Naples and tells me his impressions about his way from Zurich until here.
As we approach Burgos, the pain on my right knee just becomes worse. I look at the signs and we still have some 15km to go. I can't cycle properly, so I go silent and slowly, cycling only with my left leg. The pain only grows stronger, and I'm terrified with the possibility of not being able to finish my trip.
Enzo is very reserved, yet calm and positive. We have lunch, find a hostel and later on he makes me company in my way to a drugstore. He is not desperated, he's trustful and suggests I should stop and have a rest day in Burgos.
He's right. I'm grateful for being surrounded by a sensible & sensitive person. I have an internal surreal dialogue with my body: "ok, I'll give you one day of rest and yoga. If you need more, I promise I will give you more. But can you take me to Santiago?"
I'm yet no sure why, but at last I feel I have made my own peace with Switzerland.

*poor right knee...

*Enzo in his Camino