Mostrando postagens com marcador bike. Mostrar todas as postagens
Mostrando postagens com marcador bike. Mostrar todas as postagens

terça-feira, 15 de setembro de 2015

#75. Minha bicicleta nova, os fins e os começos/My new bicycle, the ends and the beginnings

[English version below]

Hoje comprei uma bicicleta de viagem. Minha nova companheira vem pra substituir a antiga, aquela que me atravessou por mais de três meses em cinco mil quilômetros divididos entre a França e a Espanha. Há dois anos a viagem terminava e a gente tomava o avião de volta pra Suíça. Três meses depois ela seria roubada na frente da biblioteca da universidade, em Genebra.
Quem diria.
Minha nova bicicleta custou metade do preço daquela outra. É grande, pesada, robusta, barata, alemã, grosseira, artesanal. Comprei de um velhinho que não fala a mesma língua que eu e que organiza excursões ciclísticas na Tailândia, em Cuba e na Europa. Ele monta todas as bicicletas com os mesmos componentes, pinta os quadros do mesmo verde fosforescente e prega em cada um deles o mesmo adesivo. Velociped. Quando o verão acaba e a temporada de excursões termina, ele abre o barracão, coloca as velhas à venda e começa a renovar a frota pro ano seguinte.
A bicicleta que eu escolhi tem três anos. Não sei por quais países ela já andou, mas tenho a sensação de que foram muitos. Ela não vem nova como a outra, intocada, cinza sexy, reluzente. Eu, também, já não sou como aquela outra de mim, que subia pela primeira vez na bike prata como quem descobre que pode ser ciclista e viajante.
Em setembro de 2015, eu e minha bicicleta caminhoneira verde já começamos gastas. Cheias de anos em países e estradas. A manutenção é boa, mas se você olhar direitinho nas juntas, dá pra ver que a gente contém quilômetros.

* * *

Aqui na Alemanha, me dou conta que o outono chegou porque no fim da tarde preciso colocar o gorro pra voltar pra casa. Sentado do meu lado na cama, o Marvin vai desenhando o nosso caminho: amanhã levamos as bicicletas de carro pra Berlim, e de lá a gente sobe pedalando na direção da costa, fronteira com a Dinamarca, depois pra Leipzig, pra Dresden, de volta pra Marburg e por fim pra Frankfurt.
Quem diria.
Que de Uma eu seria Dois na estrada, procurando com ele uma cidade pra gente morar . Que um dia eu teria que aprender alemão, esta língua terrível e marciana. Que sem perder a lucidez eu aceitaria pedalar no norte da Alemanha no outono, e não no verão. Que esta minha nova viagem de bicicleta, mais curtinha e improvisada, seria pra criar raízes, e não para abrir asas e destruir projetos de estabilidade em todas as direções. Que eu estaria terminando o livro sobre aquela viagem de bicicleta, a outra, na estrada, lado a lado com o amigo que virou namorado, e que eu conheci lá atrás, quando pedalava sozinha na Andaluzia.
Eu sou outra e minha bicicleta agora é verde. O cabelo do Marvin cresceu, e a barba também. Mas a bicicleta dele ainda é aquela de dois anos atrás. Grande, pesada, robusta, barata, grosseira, artesanal.
Azul.
Alemã.


* * *
[ENGLISH]

I bought a bike today. My new two-wheel friend comes to replace the old one - that which once crossed through and with me three months, five thousand kilometers across France and Spain. Two years ago we were finishing our journey and taking the plane back to Switzerland. I half survived, but the bike was robbed in front of the library a couple of months later, in Geneva.
No one could tell by then.
My new bicycle is much cheaper than the older one. It is huge, heavy, tough, cheap, German, rough, handmade. I got it from an old man that speaks a language I can't understand. His job consists of taking people into bike tours around Thailand, and he puts the bicycles together himself. Each one of them has the same components, every frame is painted with the same fluorescent green and carries the same sticker from that same company. Velociped. When the summer is over, the bike touring season comes to an end. He opens the doors, outs the old bikes on sale and start to prepare new ones for the coming summer.
The bike I chose is three years-old. I know nothing about the countries where she has been too, but I sense she's quite an experienced one. She does not come to me like my previous partner - brand new, untouched, light gray, shiny-sexy. Me neither. I'm not like that old Mariana that rode a silver bike for the first time with the glow of someone who is starting to discover herself as a cyclist and a traveler.
In September, 2015, my bicycle and me have a second-hand beginning. Full of countries and roads, we are. Yes, we were well maintained thus we're in good shape. But if you look a little closer, then you'll notice our inside is just too full of kilometers.

* * *

Walking the streets of Germany, I realize autumn has arrived because by the late afternoon I'm going crazy without a hat and gloves. Seating by my side on the bed, Marvin draws our map in the air. Tomorrow we take our bikes to Berlin by car, and from Berlin we cycle up towards the coast, close to the border with Denmark, and then Leipzig, Dresden, back to Marburg, Frankfurt.
I couldn't tell by then.
That from One I would one day hit the road as Two, looking for cities where we want to live together. That one day I would really have to learn German - this terrible language that seems to have been created in Mars. That I'd be crazy enough to say yes to bike touring in the freezing German autumn. That this new bike tour of mine, short and improvised, would come into place as a way to lay roots, not as the spreading of wings wide, for the other one meant the destruction of every further possible illusion of stability. That I would be finishing the book of the past bike tour on the road, side by side with the friend that became boyfriend. The same one I met back then, two years ago when I cycled by myself in Andaluzia.
I'm a different self and my bike now is green. Marvin's hair has grown, and so did his beard. But his bicycle is still the same he had two years ago. Huge, heavy, tough, cheap, rough, handmade.
Blue.
German.



terça-feira, 2 de julho de 2013

#34. The bike diaries, day 3 - Horse Stories

Day 3
Up in the mountains, light heart, heavy legs

 It´s the 1st of July and everything hurts, so I wake up late and look at the map to choose a route to my next city.
Two options: 1. either I follow the hikers' path in a quite flat and relaxed region...; 2. ... or I go up in the mountains in a hard yet gorgeous landscape.
What the hell.
And I take the road to the mountains. Guess I was not born to the easy ways.


But first I make a stop in the bakery to have breakfast. The cute tatooed waiter is looking at me as I place my order: a machiatto, 2 croissants, a cheese sandwich and one veggie snack, please.
- To eat here or to go?
- To eat here, of course.  And two more sandwichs to go, if it is ok for you.
And he keeps staring at me nonstop as I eat 2000 calories in less than four minutes.


There´s something about heading on a bike into the hard mountains. You follow the road, they stand right in front of you, and you're never sure you're gonna make it through. There's some sort of arrogance going on for you're defying them somehow, but you also need to show some respect for they can crush you easily in no more than two seconds.
As for me, I went all the way up 4 mountains, and more than once I thought I was about to die. I stopped to have water and to breath, no one around, and those for sure were the hardest 20km I have ever done in my life. Going down into the Rioja valleys was gorgeous, and I guess it was so only because I knew what I had to endure to reach 60km/h downhill for more than 20 minutes.
Yesterday I know something of mine was left behind in those mountains, for I arrived in Santo Domingo de la Calzada with a light, very light heart.


I arrive in Santo Domingo and go out to get some bread. In the door of the hostel a guy in weird clothes is just arriving in his horse (!) and asks for a piece of my baguette. I give him some and a banana, and he vanishes. Three hours later he's looking for me in the common area, a lemon in his hands. He gives me the lemon as a gift, lie his head in my thighs and tells me about his life around horses in England. In his highly polished British accent, he then tells me he likes to be around people sometimes, shows me his Swiss knife, asks about me, makes me laugh and cleans my extremely filthy glasses. "I need to leave now", I say, and he replies with a "it's been nice to lie on top of you". Then Dean says he likes me and promises he will write me someday, whenever he gets to a computer in his way to San Sebastian, up north.
Horse stories.










domingo, 30 de junho de 2013

#31. Bike diaries - Towards Santiago, day 1 - El Camino and its beginning

Day 1- 29 June, 2013
Irun-Beasain, 70km, 5hours on the bike, valleys and hills


After 1200km riding my bike from Brittany to the border with Spain, I came to the end of the trip and realized I had nowhere to live and nothing to lose, but I also noticed I had strong (and now suntanned!) legs and a good bike to ride. After having moved 9 times in less than two years, I felt it was time to stop resisting and to take my pilgrim lifestyle to a whole other level. This is the story of how  I cancelled my tickets to Brazil and decided to take my chances heading to Santiago de Compostela. These, and the followings posts, are excerpts from my personal diary. They will be published both in English and Portuguese whenever I have the chance, for I'm only in my second day and I have no idea when I'll find an internet connection again...

*Ramdom thoughts/situations in my first day of pilgrimage:

I will never make it in these fucking mountains.

I can't feel my knees anymore.

Why did I have to act hipster and choose a path to Santiago that nobody knows? Where the hell are the cute guys looking for enlightenment?
[ramdom thoughts in my day completely alone in the hostel in Beasain while thousands of pilgrims were fighting for a spot in the hostels throughout the French way, the most popular route to Santiago]

Ok. Everything has ham, I got it. So bring me the damn tortilla and a double dose of Jack Daniels on the rocks, please.
[vegetarian pain in Spain, properly cured with huge doses of Jack Daniels, after a heavy day riding my bike in the mountains]

Where are the cyclists pilgrims to Santiago?

Where are the women cycling on the roads?

I can't stand these stinky clothes anymore.
No way I'm wearing these socks again in my life.

What time does the siesta stop in this city?

-¿Hasta donde vas en bici, chica?
- Me voy hasta Santiago.
- ¿Y te vas sola?
- Sí!
-¿¿En serio???
- Si.
- !Valiente!
-.. y vengo del norte de la Francia, ya he hecho 1200km y algunas montañas...
-¡Valiente! Que buenas piernas tienes...
- Gracias. Ahora dejáme, que necesito continuar.Que te vayas bien, chico.
[my usual, daily dialogue with professionalroad bikers that come along in the road to chat while I'm riding. with my 10kg panniers. I swear: this dialogue happens more than 10 times a day, but none of the guys is riding to  Santiago, so none of them can make me company for too long]

No... ¿Tú? En bici? Sola? Hasta Santiago? Mira, que nunca he visto eso!

Please, God, no rain tomorrow, please please please...

Please, God, no steep mountain tomorrow, please please please...

Can I borrow some ice to put on my knees?
[in the bar]

What do you mean by me crossing the Pyrennees, sir???





Thanks, God, for I've never been so happy.